How to Read a Japanese Auction Sheet: Damage Codes A1, U2, W1 Explained
When you buy a used car from Japan, the auction sheet is the closest thing to seeing the car in person. It is a standardized inspection report, but it is written in Japanese and uses codes that can look cryptic. If you are working with an exporter such as GULJI TRADERS, learning how to read a Japanese auction sheet helps you shortlist better cars and ask sharper questions.
1. Header: The Car's Identity
The top section shows the auction house, lot number, date, chassis number, make, model, year, mileage, engine, transmission, drive, fuel, and color. Check that the chassis number matches the export documents. Mileage is usually in kilometers. Look for the Japanese terms for mileage (走行) and year (年式). If details seem inconsistent, ask your exporter to confirm.
2. Overall Auction Grade
The overall grade is a quick quality signal, not a full condition report. Common grades:
- S – nearly new, very low mileage.
- 6 – as new.
- 5 – excellent.
- 4.5 – very good.
- 4 – good.
- 3.5 – average, often with some marks.
- 3 – below average, visible damage or higher mileage.
- 2, 1, 0 – poor or modified; usually avoid unless you know what you are doing.
- R / RA – repaired or accident history.
- A – sometimes used for very good condition, depending on auction house.
A high grade with several damage codes is possible: the grade is an overall opinion, while the diagram shows specifics.
3. Interior Grade and Equipment
Interior grade is often A to D:
- A – clean, minimal wear.
- B – normal wear.
- C – noticeable wear, stains, or tears.
- D – rough.
The equipment list may include AC, power steering, power windows, airbags, navigation, TV, sunroof, alloy wheels, and seat type. Confirm important features with your exporter, because auction sheets can be abbreviated.
4. Damage Diagram and Codes
The car outline shows where damage is. Codes combine a letter for damage type and a number for severity (1 = light, 2 = moderate, 3 = heavy). Common codes:
- A – scratch. A1 light scratch, A2 medium, A3 deep or long scratch.
- U – dent. U1 small dent, U2 noticeable dent, U3 large dent.
- W – wave or warp. W1 light wave, W2 moderate, W3 severe.
- Y – crack. Y1 small, Y2 medium, Y3 large.
- S – rust. S1 light surface rust, S2 moderate, S3 heavy rust.
- X – panel needs repair or has been repaired. XX – panel has been replaced.
- G – glass damage.
- T – tire issue.
So A1 is usually a minor cosmetic scratch, U2 is a clear dent worth repairing, and W1 is a light wave in the panel that may be hard to see in photos. Codes vary slightly by auction house, so always ask your exporter for the exact legend used on that sheet.
5. Auctioneer Comments and Inspection Notes
The comment box contains handwritten or typed Japanese notes. This is where you find warnings that grades do not show: engine noise, oil leaks, warning lights, undercarriage rust, aftermarket modifications, or accident repair. If you need ARAI car auction sheet translation, remember ARAI and other auction houses use similar code sets, but the comments are the part that needs human translation. A good car inspection report japan export should match these notes, not just repeat the grade.
6. How to Use the Sheet Before You Buy
- Cross-check the damage diagram against auction photos. If a panel is marked U2 but photos look clean, ask for a closer shot.
- Treat X and XX seriously. Replaced or repaired panels can affect value and resale.
- Look for S2/S3 rust, especially under the car. Surface rust is common; heavy structural rust is a red flag.
- Check grade R/RA and ask what was repaired.
- Confirm mileage, auction date, and whether the sheet is original.
- Ask your exporter for a translated summary and an independent inspection if you cannot inspect the car yourself.
Quick Takeaway
The auction sheet is a map, not a guarantee. Use the overall grade for a first filter, the damage codes for condition details, and the comments for hidden issues. With a reliable exporter such as GULJI TRADERS, you can turn a Japanese auction sheet into a clear buying decision instead of a guessing game.
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